GRAPES & CAVES

KARST (KRAS) GRAPE GROWING REGION

This region’s land mass is famous for its limestone topography featuring cliffs as well as sinkholes. The Kras Wine Road, which winds through the region and is an ideal bike route, produces many types of wine along its route. Booking wine tours here is very popular! I loved seeing the entrance to a vineyard filled with compost ready to use. Then, I notice that roses are often planted at the corners of vineyards and the end of grapevine rows. I am told it is an indicator plant for the grapevines. If the rose is happy, the grapes are happy. And… cats definitely rule here as well.

A local, also bicycling uphill and happy for a pause, tells me about the White Cow Gallery which produces over-the-top porcelain. It’s just a small detour to get to the gallery, so I stop in and admire their colorful work with fun patterns and free form shapes - lamenting that it won’t travel well on a bike! (check out the pics on their website)

I stop for the night at Hostel Kras in Pliskovica. It is a renovated 400 year old farmhouse. I meet Timi who works here part time, is 18, in school studying electricity, and is a welder by profession. He is so interesting! Instead of wanting to buy a car, he is working to save enough money for his next trip. He is a spontaneous traveler and has great stories! He wants to go to Australia next, simply because he is curious. It is so much fun to meet young people like Timi who are clear about their desires in life, and whose desires center around accumulating experiences.

Timi invites me to try one of the hostels own wines. It is delicious and I realize I can pack the small wine bottles safely on my bike and have perfect gifts for family I will be visiting in Germany.

SKOCJAN CAVES

Next up… the Skocjan Cave, which is 3 kilometers long and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is where the Reka River sinks into the underground. All tours are guided, and taking photos is not allowed as the flash can cause damage. It makes the experience unforgettable because you are totally present… and then want to buy postcards of what you couldn’t take a picture of!

POSTJOJNA CAVE

Also part of the Karst region and short 20 miles away is the Postojna Cave which was carved by the Pivka River over millions of years. This cave is 25 kilometers long but only 5 km is open to the public. Rail cars move people through 3 km of the cave and the last 2 km are walkable. Taking photos is allowed - maybe because it isn’t a UNESCO site. It takes centuries to build these amazing formations.

It’s incredible how much one can see getting around by bike.

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